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| Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity |
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22/02/2008 |
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A breed spanning the Spanish and French border
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Until the early 20th century, there were still three native pig breeds in the Basque Country: the Baztanesa, the Chato Vitoriano (both now extinct) and the Euskal Txerria. The latter was only saved in extremis thanks to the initiative of a French Basque farmer, Pierre Oteitza. By 1997 there was again a reasonable number of sows, but no animals were left in Spain’s Basque Country. The Basque Government decided to support Pello Urdapilleta, a farmer, and Mariano Gomez, a veterinarian involved with local breeds and in January 2004 a Presidium was set up to promote the reintroduction of this breed to the Spanish Basque Country. Pello’s efforts have resulted in the reappearance of Euskal Txerria meat and processed products on the market and on the menus of some prominent Basque restaurants, but more breeders need to join Pello and further develop the work he has started.
Over the border in the French Basque Country, a group of young producers, already a Terra Madre community, farms Euskal Txerria pigs and is very keen to be part of the Presidium. For this reason Piero Sardo, President of the Slow Food Foundation and Mariagiulia Mariani, coordinator of Slow Food activities in France and Spain, visited this interesting venture from February 6 to 8, together with Massimo Spigaroli, President of the Consortium for Zibello Culatello Ham, to assess whether the group could be included in the Presidium, extending the project over the Spanish border.
The Basque Country has one of the highest proportions of young people in farming in Europe. Basque people are particularly attached to the land and their houses (etche), and are very reluctant to leave or sell. Across the border in France there is even an exception to the provisions of the Napoleonic Code regarding inheritance: a family’s plot of land is not divided among the heirs but is passed down intact from generation to generation.
In many cases Basque farmers have started farming the native pig breed once again because it is more suited to the size of their family farms; the pigs eat natural feed, or feed mainly from the South West of France and without any GMOs. The only exception is soy, which is mainly sourced from Argentina and which is increasingly difficult to find GM free. Some farmers also process their meat, others prefer to use separate processing facilities and a shared affineur.
The basis for a cooperative venture is in place but some work still needs to be done to establish rules with standards for defining the Euskal Txerria breed and the criteria for natural extensive farming. This group of young producers is undoubtedly enthusiastic and we hope that Pello will soon have some more farmers joining his project.
The Euskal Txerria Pig Presidium is supported by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin
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